Permanent Plants for the Landscape

SELECTED ORNAMENTAL BROADLEAF EVERGREENS
Kenneth W. Reisch and L. C. Chadwick

A WIDE selection of broadleaf ever­greens is available for landscape use. This group of plants offers the attractiveness of year-round foliage with the added color of flowers and fruit on many types. These evergreens are a valuable asset in any landscape planting. Some selected types in various size groups are given here. Most of them are hardy in all except severe winter climates. Using several types and sizes adds interest to the landscape.

Vines
bigleaf wintercreeper euonymus
English ivy (selected hardy types)

Ground Covers
wintercreeper euonymus Japanese pachysandra Bowles common periwinkle

Dwarf Types—1-4 feet
glossy wintercreeper euonymus convexleaf Japanese holly
Hetz Japanese holly
Stokes Japanese holly
Zabel laurel-cherry
Cunningham rhododendron

Small Types-4-6 feet
wintergreen barberry
Willow common box
Green Island Japanese holly
roundleaf Japanese holly
mountain-laurel
drooping leucothoe
Oregon grape
Japanese pieris
Catawba rhododendron (selected varieties)
Medium Types—6-10 feet hardy willowleaf cotoneaster Laland firethorn leatherleaf viburnum
Euonymus fortunei vegetus Hedera helix
Euonymus fortunei Pachysandra terminalis Vinca minor 'Bowles'
Euonymus fortunei 'Glossy'
Ilex crenata 'Convexleaf
Ilex crenata 'Hetz'
Ilex crenata 'Stokes'
Prunus laurocerasus 'Zabel' Rhododendron cunninghami
Berberis julianae
Buxus sempervirens 'Willow'
Ilex crenata 'Green Island'
Ilex crenata 'Roundleaf
Kalmia latifolia
Leucothoe catesbaei
Mahonia aquifolium
Pieris japonica
Rhododendron catawbiense
Cotoneaster salìcifolia floccosa Pyracantha coccinea 'Laland'
Viburnum rhytidophyllum

Culture of Broadleaf Evergreens

Some points to consider when using broadleaf evergreens :

1. Select hardy plants.
2. Plant in well-drained soil with an ample supply of organic matter.
3. Partial shade and mulches are helpful to many species. Mulches reduce cultivation needs and help prevent damage to shallow roots of many broadleaf evergreens, such as rhododendrons.
4. Do not plant shallow-rooted evergreens under severe conditions of exposure to drying winds and winter sun.
5. Provide acid soil conditions for acid soil types, such as mountain-laurel. Equal parts of sulfur and aluminum sulfate can be used to acidify soils. 1.5 to 4 pounds per 100 square feet is usually sufficient. Recent informa­tion indicates that a reduction in the calcium level of the soil may be as important as a low pH for growing acid-soil plants.
   6. Water broadleaf evergreens in the fall. Do not let them dry severely in winter. Maintain fertility.
   Large Types—10-25 feet
   English holly (selected hardy types) Ilex aquifolium
   American holly (selected varieties) Ilex opaea

Rhododendrons, leucothoe and mountain-laurel fill this corner with green foliage all year

Lewis

SELECTED EVERGREENS FOR EVERY PURPOSE
L. C. Chadwick

THE narrowleaf evergreens offer many advantages for year-round effect in the landscape. Proper selection of de­sirable evergreens, in combination with the right deciduous plants, provide the flower, fruit, branching, foliage color and textural variations necessary for a good landscape planting. Attention to the use

Narrowleaf Low Ground Covers
Sargent Chinese juniper Bar Harbor creeping juniper Andorra creeping juniper
Japgarden juniper
Dwarf Types (l½-4 feet) Armstrong Chinese juniper Andorra creeping juniper Mugho Swiss mountain pine Woodward eastern arborvitae
Top-of-steps planting is a Mugho pine set in front of the end of a clipped yew hedge
Molly Adam of the proper plant in the selected loca­tion will give the desired effect and long satisfaction.

The following selected plants are rec­ommended. These are only some of the better types of the many available which can be used in the situations indicated (see special list for selected yews).
Evergreens
Juniperus chinensis 'Sargent' J. horizontalis 'Bar Harbor'
J. horizontalis plumosa
J. procumbens
Juniperus chinensis 'Armstrong'
J. horizontalis plumosa
Pinus mugo mughus (selected)
Thuja occidentalis 'Woodward'
The yew, Taxus brevifolia, makes an inter­esting pattern when grown against a wall
McFarland
Small Types (4-6 feet)
Pfìtzer Chinese juniper Juniperus chinensis 'Pfitzer'
Densiformis Anglojap yew Taxus media 'Densiformis'

Medium Types (6-10 feet)
slender Hinoki falsecypress Chamaecyparis obtusa gracilis
Darkgreen giant arborvitae Thuja plicata, 'Darkgreen'

Large Types (10-25 feet)
Keteleer Chinese juniper Juniperus chinensis 'Keteleer'
Canaert eastern red cedar J. virginiana 'Canaert'
pyramidal eastern arborvitae Thuja occiãentalis fastigiata
giant arborvitae T. plicata

Trees (25 feet and over)
1. Medium to large
White fir Abies concolor
Nordmann fir A. norãmanniana
Serbian spruce Picea omorika
Oriental spruce P. orientaïis
Limber pine Pinus flexilis
Korean pine P. koraiensis
Red pine P· resinosa
White pine P. strobus
Douglas-fir Pseudotsuga taxifolia
Canada hemlock Tsuga canaãensis
2. Small to Medium Trees (25 feet or more only with considerable age)
Veiteh fir Abies veitchi
Moerheim Colorado spruce Picea pungens 'Moerheim'
Swiss stone pine Pinus cembra
Scotch pine P. sylvestris

The Best of the Yews

IT is exceedingly difficult to select a following list is my choice at the present limited number of the Taxus clones time. Undoubtedly some additions and and designate them as "the best." The deletions will be made in the future.

I. Low Types, 1-4 feet
1. Dwarf, Spreading Types
spreading English yew Taxus baccata repanäens
Michell English yew baccata michelli
Chadwick Anglojap yew media 'Chadwick'
2. Slow-growing, Compact, Rounded Types
cushion Japanese yew T. cuspidata densa
Flemer Anglojap yew media 'Flemer'
Hill Anglojap yew media 'Hill'
3. Slow-growing, Horizontal Spreading Types
dwarf Japanese yew T. cuspidata nana
prostrate Japanese yew cuspidata prostrata
Ward Anglojap yew media 'Ward'

II. Small Types, 4-6 feet
1. Slow-growing, Compact, Bounded or Globose Types
Densiformis Anglojap yew T. cuspidata 'Densiformis'
Brown Anglojap yew media 'Brown'
Halloran Anglojap yew media 'Halloran'
Vermeulen Anglojap yew media 'Vermeulen'
2. Slow-growing, Spreading Types
Amherst Anglojap yew T. media 'Amherst'
Sebian Anglojap yew media 'Sebian'

III. Medium Types, 6-10 feet
1. Compact, Bounded or Globose Types
spreading English yew T. baccata expansa
brevicate Anglojap yew media brevicata
Dutweiler Anglojap yew media 'Dutweiler'
2. Horizontal Spreading Types
Thayer Anglojap yew T. cuspidata 'Thayer'
Hunnewell yew hunnewelliana
3. Narrow, Upright Types
Costich Anglojap yew T. media 'Costich'
Hicks Anglojap yew media 'Hicks'
Moon Anglojap yew media 'Moon'
Stoveken Anglojap yew media 'Stoveken'
4. Broad Fastigiate, Columnar, or Pyramidal Types
Andorra Anglojap yew T. media 'Andorra'
Cole Anglojap yew media 'Cole'
Hatfleld Anglojap yew media 'Hatfield'
Kelsey Anglojap yew media 'Kelsey'

IV. Upright Tree Types, 10-25 feet
upright Japanese yew T. cuspidata capitata
Adams Anglojap yew media 'Adams'

Foundation Plantings Accent Plants
dwarf Japanese yew hemlock
Pfitzer juniper upright Japanese yew
 Browns yew
Hedges Hicks yew
Hatfield yew Canaert juniper
hemlock
Screen Plantings
Douglas-fir junipers
red pine Dundee and
hemlock Canaert

TREES AND SHRUBS FOR SPECIAL USES

A selected list of deciduous ornamental woody plants, classified according to the conditions under which they are most useful and the places in which they are most suitable

HOMEOWNERS and landscape gar­deners should be more cognizant of the advisability of eliminating from their plantings many inferior types of decidu­ous and evergreen plants. It is far better to replace old, overgrown, unattractive shrubs and evergreens than to try to re­vitalize them by extensive pruning. Severe pruning may be practiced, but from one to three years or more will elapse before some plants become really effective again

Foundation Planting

Below Medium-high Porches or Windows—4 to 5 Feet glossy abelia (Abelia granäiflora) torch azalea (Bhoäoãendron obtusum kaempferi) Chinese azalea (Rhododendron molle) Mentor barberry (Berberis mentorensis) cranberry cotoneaster (Cotoneaster apiculata) dwarf winged euonymus (Euonymus alatus compactus) oak-leaf hydrangea (Hydrangea quercifoïia) mountain currant (Bibes alpinum) garland spirea (Spiraea arguta) Korean spice viburnum, or fragrant vi­burnum (Viburnum carlesi) linden viburnum (Viburnum dilatatum) Below Low Porches or Windows— 3 Feet or Less Double Fink flowering almond (Primus glanduîosa 'Double Pink') Crimson Pygmy Japanese barberry (Ber­beris thunbergi 'Crimson Pygmy') creeping cotoneaster (Cotoneaster ad-pressa) in the landscape picture. Many excel­lent plants are now available for land­scape planting. The old overgrown ones should be replaced with some of these better shrubs and trees. The following plants are recommended. Modifications and substitutions may be made as new and better plants become available in the nurseries, or where re­gional requirements demand the use of hardier or more adaptable types. flowering Quince (Cìiaenomeles superba) Henry St. Johnswort (Hypericum patu lum henryi) tree peony (Paeonia suffruticosa) Gold Drop bush cinquefoil (Potentïlla fruticosa 'Gold Drop') Border Planting Screen Planting—10 to 25 Feet— Tolerating City Conditions cornelian-cherry (Cornus mas) Washington thorn (Crataegus phaenopyrum) common privet (Ligustrum vulgare) Lutece Henry lilac (Syringa henryi 'Lutece') wayfaring-tree (Viburnum lantana) blackhaw viburnum (Viburnum prunifolium) Screen Planting, High Hedges— Sheared or Unsheared— 6 to 10 Feet Tall Hedge glossy buckthorn (Bhamnus frangula 'Tall Hedge') common flowering quince (Chaenomeles lagenaria) winter honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantis-sima) Chinese lilac (Syringa chinensis) Canby viburnum (Viburnum pubescens canbyi) doublefile viburnum (Viburnum tomen- tosum) Hedges—Low, Mostly Sheared— 2 Feet or Less It Sheared Mentor barberry (Berberis mentorensis) flowering quince (Chaenomeles superba) dwarf winged euonymus (Euonymus ala- tus compactus) Regel's privet (Ligustrum obtusifolium regelianum) Ibolium privet (Ligustrum ibolium)— over 10 feet if unsheared mountain currant (Bibes alpinum) dwarf European cranberry-bush (Vibur­num opulus nanum)—sheared or not Shrubs and Small Trees Tolerating City Conditions (In addition to those listed under "Border Planting") cranberry cotoneaster (Cotoneaster apicu- lata) showy golden-bells (Forsythia intermedia spectabilis) upright European hornbeam (Carpinus betulus 'Pyramid') Lavalle hawthorn (Crataegus lavallei) crab apples (Malus) Asiatic species common lilac (Syringa vulgaris) Japanese snowball (Viburnum tomento- sum sterile) Trees Tolerating City Conditions Norway maple (Acer platanoides) maidenhair-tree (Ginkgo biloba) thornless honey-locust (Gleditsia tria- canthos) selected varieties Amur cork-tree (Phellodendron amu- rense) London plane-tree (Platanus acerifolia) red oak (Quercus borealis maxima) shingle oak (Quercus imbricaria) Japanese pagoda-tree (Sophora japonica) English elm (Ulmus procera) Japanese zelkova (Zelkova serrata) Shrubs Tolerating Shade and Dry Soil fiveleaf aralia (Acanthopanax sieboldi- anus) gray dogwood (Cornus racemosa) mountain ninebark (Physocarpus mono-- gynus) Dahurian buckthorn (Rhamnus divurica) jetbead (Rhodotypos kerrioides) mountain currant (Ribes alpinum) Shrubs Tolerating Shade and Normal Soil Condition 3 (In addition to the preceding a id the following group) glossy abelia (Abelia grandiflora service-berry or shadbush (Amelanchier laevis) pagoda dogwood (Cornus alternifolia) cornelian-cherry (Cornus mas) winged euonymus (Euonymus alatus) European euonymus (E. europaeus) vernal witch-hazel (Hamamelis vernalis) common witch-hazel (H. virginiana) Regel's privet (Ligustrum obtusifolium regelianum) Ibolium privet (L. ibolium) common privet (L. vulgare) winter honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantis- sima) glossy buckthorn (Rhamnus frangula) wayfaring-tree (Viburnum lantana) black-haw (Viburnum prunifolium) doublefile viburnum (V. tomentosum) cranberry-bush (V. trilobum) Canby viburnum (V. pubescent ,·canbyi) Shrubs Tolerating Shade and Wet Soil bottlebrush buckeye (Aesculus parviflora) sweet pepperbush or ummer sweet (Clethra alnifolia) Siberian dogwood (Cornus alba sibirica) spice-bush (Lindera benzoin) winterberry (Ilex verticillata) withe-rod (Viburnum cassinoides) Shrubs Tolerating Wet Soil But Not Shade hazel alder (Alnus rugosa) red chokeberry (Aronia arbutifolia) strawberry-bush (Euonymus americanus)

sweet-bay (Magnolia virginiana) purple osier (Salix purpurea) Shrubs Tolerating Sandy Soils Siebold aralia (Acanthopanax sieboldi- anus) Japanese quince (Chaenomeles lagenaria) sweet-fern (Comptonia peregrina) cornelian-cherry (Cornus mas) gray dogwood (C racemosa) blood-twig dogwood (C. sanguinea) southern bush-honeysuckle (Diervilla ses- silifolia) shrubby St. Johnswort (Hypericum pro- lificum) common privet (Ligustrum vulgare) bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica) shrubby cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticosa) glossy buckthorn (Rhamnus frangula) fragrant sumac (Rhus aromatica) arrow-wood (Viburnum dentatum) Spreading Plants to Cover Banks and Rough Places Siebold aralia (Acanthopanax sieboldi- anus) fiveleaf akebia (Akebia quinata) American bittersweet (Celastrus scan- dens) Siberian dogwood (Cornus alba sibirica) weeping golden-bells (Forsythia suspensa) Hall's Japanese honeysuckle (Lonicera japonica halliana)

Gottscho-Schleisner An old apple tree shades the front door; evergreens are grouped on either side bayberry (Myrica pensylvanica) Virginia creeper (Parthenocissus quin- quefolia) shrubby cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticosa) Alpine currant (Ribes alpinum) fragrant sumac (Rhus aromatica) Indian-currant (Symphoricarpos orbicu- latus)

Small-leaved Japanese holly, underplanted with periwinkle, borders the porch which, in turn, is framed with taller holly specimens on either side. Clematis covers the trellis at right

Molly Adams

SELECTING THE BEST AZALEAS
Frederic P. Lee

THE home gardener should realize that A azaleas are available in 3000-odd varieties and some are suited for each of several climatic zones over a wide area in this country. The area within which azaleas may be grown extends from New England to northern Florida and west to central Ohio and Kentucky, the South from the East coast to central Texas, and the Pacific Coast. These are forested, or originally forested, areas generally with acid (not alkaline or close to neutral) soils where native azaleas grow naturally. Useful forest humus and litter is at hand where farms and bull­dozers have not destroyed or buried it. Endotrophic mycorrhizae, soil fungi asso­ciated with the nutritional processes of ericaceous plants like azaleas, and prob­ably necessary to them, are present. Also there is an average rainfall of over 30 inches, usually 40 to 80 inches.

From these considerations can be de­duced the basic requirements for azaleas: filtered shade from deciduous trees trimmed high, or full sun only in morning or afternoon; soil that is loose, crumbly, and has large amounts of organic matter or humus; a moderately acid soil; a moderately moist climate with 30, prefer­ably 40 or more, inches of rain a year, and a constant year-round mulch.

One group is the deciduous azaleas that lose their leaves in the fall. These include our native species, Rhododendron molle and japonicum from China and Japan, and flavum from the Caucasus-Black Sea region, and hybrids of these, as the Mollis, Ghent and Knap Hill hybirds including the Knap Hill, Exbury, and Slocock strains of the last named. Various of these deciduous species and varieties are suitable where winter aver­age annual low temperatures are from 10° above to 20" F. below zero. South of Pennsylvania on the eastern coastal plain, summer heat becomes increasingly a limiting factor for growing the decidu­ous azaleas. A race of these good for the South is yet to be developed and introduced.

The second group is the evergreen azaleas. Actually they are only partially evergreen since their thinner, lighter, larger, and usually more scattered "spring" leaves drop off in the fall, while their thicker, darker, smaller "summer" leaves, crowded at the tips of branches, remain over winter in most instances. The evergreen azalea species come most­ly from Japan and the eastern part of Asia. Their hybrids include the Belgian Indian, Southern Indian (Indicas), Ku-rume, Yerkes-Pryor, Merritt, Kaempferi (Malvatica), Satsuki (Macrantha and Chugai), Pericat, Gable, Glenn Dale, and other groups. Various of these species and hybrids are suitable where winter average annual low temperatures are from 25° above to 5° below zero. Ac­cording to the new Hardiness Zone Map being published by the United States Na­tional Arboretum in Washington, D. C, New Bedford, Mass., New London, Conn., Staten Island, N. T., Plainfield, N. J., Wilmington. Del., Gettysburg, Pa., Balti­more, Md., Washington, D. C, and Char-lottesville, Va., are typical East coast cities with average annual lows some­where between 5° above and 5° below zero; few West coast cities reach this low an annual average.

As a guide to selection of varieties for hardiness, average annual lows for several groups of azaleas are listed below. Do not grow them in areas colder than the minimum indicated.
20° below: Ghent and Knap Hill Hybrids and the species arborescens, nudi-florum, canadense, roseum, vaseyì, and viscosum. Some Ghents and canadense, nidiflortum and roseum will endure 30° below.
10° below: Mollis Hybrids and the species bakeri, calendulacum, atlanticum, poukhanense, and sehlippenbachi.
0° or 5° below: Arnoldiana, Gable, Kaempferi, and Vuyk Hybrids, and the species kaempferi and obtusum var. amoenum.
5° above or zero: Kurume, Glenn Dale, Yerkes-Pryor, Merritt, Pericat, and Satsuki Hybrids, and the species cane-scens, macrosepalum, mucronatum, obtu­sum, phoeniceum f. maxwelli, prunifolium, serrulatum, and speciosum.
15" above: Southern Indian Hybrids (Indicas) and the species scabrum (sub-lanceolatum).

25° above: Belgian Indian and Ruther­ford Hybrids.

There is a great lack of familiarity with the range of plants available—a blooming range from mid-April to mid-June with a few natives blooming much later, plants dwarf to tall, and flower colors white, yellow, orange, and scarlet among the deciduous, and white, scarlet, crimson, and purple among the evergreen, including pastel tints and sparkling shades. There are striped, flecked, or sectored color designs, as well as self-colored flowers with or without conspicu­ously contrasting throats or eyes; also singles, semi-doubles, and doubles, any of which may, in addition, be hose-in-hose, that is, with sepals like petals.

Recommendations, with some of the less usual characteristics noted in case of the evergreens, are:

I. Deciduous

Calendulacum (Flame Azalea) : tall, select for colors orange to red. Prunifolium (Plumleaf A.): tall, select for colors orange to red, very late. Canescens (Florida Pinxter A.): tall, select for colors near white to deep pink; particularly for South. White Ballerina (Exbury) Crinoline (Exbury) Yellow Adriaan Koster (Mollis) Directeur Moerlands (Mollis) George Reynolds (Exbury) Golden Sunset (Exbury) Orange and Orange-Red Coccinea Speciosa (Ghent) Frills (Exbury) Gallipoli (Exbury) Golden Eagle (Knap Hill) Red Dr. Jacobi (Mollis) Sang de Gentbrugge (Ghent) Roseum (Roseshell A.) : medium height, select good deep pink. Arborescens (Sweet A.): tall, white, late, very fragrant. Sehlippenbachi (Royal A.) : tall and spreading, select good deep pink form with 3- or 4-inch flowers. Vaseyì (Pinkshell A.) : tall, good pink. Silver Slipper (Exbury) Persil (Sloeock) Harvest Moon (Knap Hill) Marion Merriman (Knap Hill) Nancy Waterer (Ghent) Goldeneye (Knap Hill) Koster's Brilliant Red (Mollis) Pallas (Ghent) Spek's Brilliant (Mollis) Satan (Sloeock) Willem Hardijzer (Mollis) Pink, Apricot, and Salmon Babeuff (Mollis) Bouquet de Flore (Ghent) Berry Rose (Exbury) Cecile (Exbury) Exquisita (Occidentale) Fanny (Ghent) Frans van der Bom (Mollis) Sylphides (Knap Hill).

II. Evergreens

White Angela Place (Glenn Dale) : low, late midseason. Cygnet (Glenn Dale) : low, early. Dimity (Glenn Dale) : early midseason, striped red. Driven Snow (Glenn Dale) : low, late. Fujinishiki (Satsuki) : frilled, late. Glacier (Glenn Dale) : late midseason. Gunbi (Satsuki) : low, very late, red stripes, frilled. Helen Close (Glenn Dale) :late midseason. Jindai (Satsuki) : very late. Orange-~Red {scarlet) Amber Glow (Bobbink & Atkins Macrantha Hy.) : late midseason, hose-in-hose. Ballet Girl (Glenn Dale) : early. Balsaminaeflora: indicum form, low, very late. Beni-Kirishima: indicum form, late. Bunkwa (Satsuki) : very late, low, white with orange-red margin. Copperman (Glenn Dale) : late. Dr. E. A. Merritt (syn. China, Chisolm- Merritt) : early midseason. Flander’s Field (Pericat) : late midseason. Tied {crimson) Aztec (Glenn Dale) : low, very late, white throat. Chippewa (Bobbink & Atkins Macrantha Hys.) : very late, frilled. Dayspring (Glenn Dale) : early white with pale rose margins. Fortune (Pericat) : semi-double, early midseason. Gunrei (Satsuki) : low, very late, flushed red, frilled. Hexe: low, late midseason, hose-in-hose, frilled.Kow-Koku (Satsuki) : low very late. Kure-No-Yuki (Kurume) : semi-double, early. Magnifica conspicuous blotch, mucrona-tum form, early midseason. Mucronatum (Indica Alba) : species, early midseason. Safrano (Glenn Dale) : late, low. Treasure (Glenn Dale) : late midseason. White Gumpo: eriocarpum form, very low, very late. White Perfection (Yerkes-Pryot·) : hose-in-hose, early midseason. J. T. Lovett: indicum form, late. Kagaribi (Kurume) : early midseason. Keisetsu (Satsuki) : late, white throat. Kintaiyo (Wada Scabrume) : wHte edged bright orange, early midseason. Picador (Glenn Dale) : early midseason. Sakuragata: indicum form, white throat, late. Suetsumu (syn. Flame, Kunim ;) : early midseason. Tama-sugata (Satsuki) : very late, white throat. Tanager (Glenn Dale) : late midseason. Kingetsu (Satsuki) : low, very late, white throat. Mai-Hime (Satsuki) : low, very late, self red and red flushed, striped, and flecked on white. Peach Blow (Kurume) : flusheded, early midseason. Pearl Bradford (Glenn Dale) : low, very late. Shinnyo-No-Tsuki (Satsuki) : low, very late, white throat, tender. Shin-utena (syn. Santoi, Kurume): -white tipped violet-red. Splendor (Pericat): semi-double, hose-in- hose. Spring Glory (Pericat) : hose-in-hose, frilled. Violet-Red (pink) Azuma-kagami (syn. Pink Pearl, Kur­ume) : hose-in-hose. Bridesmaid (Kurume) : early midseason. Caress (Glenn Dale) : early, lighter throat. Crinoline (Glenn Dale) : late midseason. Crusader (Glenn Dale) : late, low. Dawn (Pericat) : white center, hose-in-hose, late midseason. Dream (Glenn Dale) : early. Guy Yerkes (Yerkes-Pryor) : hose-in-hose, early midseason. Hatsushimo (Kurume) : flushed violet-red, white edging, conspicuous blotch, early midseason. Reddish Violet (lavender and purple) Anne Chenee (Pericat): white flushed purple, hose-in-hose, frilled. Chanticleer (Glenn Dale) : late. Dauntless (Glenn Dale) : low, late, throat scarlet. Gibiyama (Kurume) : early midseason. Hazel Dawson (Dawson) : late midseason. Lilacina: mucronatum form, early mid­season.

Sweet Briar (Kurume): flushed red, early midseason. Warai-Gishi: indicum form, late. Wildfire (Glenn Dale) : low, late, white throat. Yaeshojo (Kurume): early, hose-in-hose. Ho-oden (Kurume): early mid-season, white edges, blotch, hose-in-hose, low. Joya (Glenn Dale) : early midseason. Martha Hitchcock (Glenn Dale) : early midseason, white throat. Maxwelli: phoeniceum form. Mayo's Magic Lily (Mayo) : flushed violet-red, late midseason. Pink Profusion (Yerkes-Pryor) : hose-in-hose, early midseason. Sagittarius (Glenn Dale): low, very late. Sensation (Pericat) : low, late midseason, hose-in-hose. Stunner (Glenn Dale): low, very late. Padre (Glenn Dale): early midseason. Sarabande (Glenn Dale) : late, white throat. Usuyo (Kurume) : early midseason. Yo-zakura (Kurume) : early midseason. Zulu (Glenn Dale^ : late midseason The following evergreen azaleas are in general a little hardier than those listed above: White: Palestrina (Vuyk); Rose Greeley (Gable). Orange-Red (scarlet) : kaempferi, species; Mary Dalton (Gable). Red (crimson) : John Cairns (Kaempferi) ; Othello (Kaempferi); Stewartsonian (Gable); Vuyk's Scarlet (Vuyk). Violet-Red (pink): Carol (Gable); Chopin (Vuyk); Fedora (Kaempferi); Jessie Coover (Gable); Kathleen (Kaempferi); Springtime (Gable). Reddish Violet (lavender and purple) : Big Joe (Gable); Gretchen (Kaempferi) ; Herbert (Gable); Purple Splendour (Gable): Purple Triumph (Vuyk); Viola (Gable); poukhanense, species.

For every variety recommended above, there are usually a half dozen other vari­eties that could be substituted as similar and equally good.

For warmer areas, where the tempera­ture does not go lower than 15° above zero in case of the Southern Indian Hy­brids (Indicas) or 25° above zero in case of the Belgian Indian and Rutherford Hybrids, varieties from these groups are commonly used. They have on the whole both the largest and the finest flowers of all the evergreen azaleas.

Recent Developments

A few of the Satsukis, known here as Macrantha Hybrids or forms, are available. A few others from the Chugai Nursery in Japan, sometimes called Chugais, were brought in by the Plant Introduction Sec­tion, United States Department of Agri­culture. Both of these are of great inter­est because of their late bloom, low growth, and beautiful flowers, frequently of several different color designs on the same plant. A dwarf race of Kurumes is also on the way from the Department of Agriculture. Among the newer ever-Evergreen Kurume azaleas make bushy, spreading plants which are solid masses of color in brilliant or pastel tones

green groups are the Glenn Dales. Plants cover about five different blooming periods from mid-April to mid-June, with dwarfs to tails and a great array of colors and flower designs for each period. Some Gable Hybrids, another recent group, aver­age perhaps a little hardier than the aver­age Glenn Dale or Kurume. Still to be introduced are the Hirado Hybrids from Japan, a few of which have been brought in recently by the Plant Introduction Section, many more of the Satsukis recommended by the Japanese Satsuki Society, and about 25 or 30 little-known eastern Asian species.

In the deciduous azaleas, new Knap Hills are being introduced each year in too great numbers, but among them are many lovely flowers.

With so many azaleas to choose from, it is a bit dull and routine for home owners to choose over and over the same half dozen azalea varieties carried by the run-of-the-mill nurseries. Women do not all select the same half dozen hats. See what the specialist nurserymen have to offer in newer and different azaleas, usually at the same or lower prices. Azalea schlippenbachi is deciduous, upright growing, and its large blossoms are a deli­cate tone of pink

Roche

HELPS TO EFFICIENCY
Alys Sutcliffe

Advice to beginners on sources of information
and ways of avoiding a few common pitfalls

Many a woold-be gardener is at a loss to know how to get the information and the supplies that he needs. He does not know where to learn about gardening, either directly or through books; or where to buy plants, seeds, fertilizers, sprays, and tools.

He is often carried away by advertisements offering cheap plants of unknown origin; innumerable novel appliances , or gadgets, guaranteed to take all the work out of gardening, and sprays and weed killers guaranteed to make the garden grow and weeds disappear without any effort on anybody’s part—least of all the gardener himself. A person thus misled finds himself, in the end, surrounded by dead and dying plants, enough bottles to stock a drug store, and enough tools to supply the neighborhood—without the remotest idea what to do with them himself.

Information

Short courses are given in many towns dens, horticultural societies, arboretums, community centers, and schools. They can be very helpful, since they offer practical instruction and often an opportunity to work with materials yourself.

Questions sent to garden editors of papers and magazines are always answered. Botanic gardens generally give information by letter and by telephone. County extension agents also are available by phone or letter, too.

Libraries of botanic gardens and horticultural societies have good collections of books on gardeners. Public libraries, at least in the larger town, have the important garden encyclopedias and the more popular garden books. The gardener

Can see these books and decided which ones would be most useful for him to own.

If books seem too complicated for beginners, there are several garden magazines available which give timely information on what to do in the garden, and also include newsworthy garden information. Most of these magazines are on file in public, botanic garden and horticultural libraries, or may be obtained regularly by subscription.

Many special plant societies, devoted to one group of plants such as rose, iris, daffodil, dahlia and chrysanthemum, publish their own magazines and yearbooks which are in horticultural libraries and are supplied to their members.

Plants

Catalogs are published by most of the reputable dealers. Generally these are sent free on request; and while there is a small charge for some, they are well worth it. Dealers with good reputations of long standing are safest for beginners.

In the group are firms that specialize in certain kinds of plants, such as iris, peonies, gladiolus, African violets, hemerocallis and unusual plants.

Visits to nurseries are a great help; these should be made when plants are in full flower or growth. (Be considerate of the nurseryman’s time if you are only “looking.”) By seeing plants at their best season one can choose the plants he likes and get a better idea of price in relation to size. In arboretums and botanic gardens, choice plants correctly labelled may be seen.